A few weeks ago I came across some remarkable images on Flickr: gorgeous street scenes in Lagos, Nigeria, some of which featured a sweet-looking fixie. I had to learn more!
After a brief correspondence, the photographer, whose name is Tolu, was kind enough to write this guest post about life on and off a fixie in Lagos, which is Africa’s second largest city. I’ll be posting it in two parts. Tolu takes it from here, and all the photos are his:
I’ve been fortunate enough to spend a lot of my life in different places. I’ve been exposed to many things and have formed my interests accordingly. About two years ago, living in London, a close friend introduced me to cycling. I’d recently been retired from motorbikes (Suzuki GSXR750 was my last) by my loving wife and first child so I had a hole in my life that needed filling.
After a little investigating and deciding I needed to shed some weight, I went out and bought an off-the-shelf bike. My first few outings ended in puffing and wheezing back home soon after leaving, but soon I got much fitter and ended up ditching the car in favor of the bike. As I cycled around London I noticed some funky looking bikes. I’ve always loved getting my hands dirty and I’m guilty of being a bit of a customising freak so soon enough I was on the internet looking into ways of customising bikes. My forming addiction was further fueled by a trip to San Francisco where I witnessed, first hand, the fixed gear scene in all its glory. Suddenly my trusty of-the-shelf steed seemed inadequate.
Around the same time we were planning a long stint back home in Nigeria. As I delved deeper into the fixie (fixed gear bicycle) scene it struck me that with the lack of parts and skilled labour in Lagos a fixie would be the perfect bike to ride there.
Nigeria is a large West African country with a great diversity in culture, language, religion etc. It is also quite a harsh environment in which to live, with extremes of poverty and wealth.
As our dependence on oil has grown, other areas of industry have been stifled. Our social and cultural perceptions have also been warped. In the past, especially in rural areas, the bicycle has been a viable means of getting around. Now the only people you really see on bicycles are the few elderly gentlemen that are still able, while the number of cars and motorbikes seems to grow without limits. Sad and somewhat simplified to suit this post, but true nonetheless.
Anyway, ride I intended to do! No way I was going to be somewhere for 6 months without being able to ride a bike! A fixie would also be ideally suited our topography as Lagos is pretty flat. So a single gear would not be a hinderance.
Got out the credit card and started ordering bits and pieces to build my first bike. Chain and handlebars from Japan, frame and hubs from the UK, wheels, saddle and saddle post from the US, crank from Italy etc. I felt like a kid in a candy store. So many options and so many different ways to put all these options together.
A lot of the parts I got were influenced by the environment I was building the bike for. I got some very good, puncture resistant tyres (Continental Ultra Gatorskins), very strong wheels built with the maximum number of spokes, again for maximum strength (Velocity Deep V). Super comfy Oury handlebar grips to soak up a lot of the road vibration. Izumi super toughness chain for…you guessed it, for super toughness! Etc.
Fast forward through packing, seven suitcases, two cabs to the airport, keeping the kids entertained on the flight, the culture shock of being back in Lagos (more for my wife as I’m used to the constant in and out, to and from Lagos), anti-malaria tablets settling in, getting back into the office routine to….. My first ride in Lagos.
I knew cycling here would be a baptism of fire. As a people we don’t have much regard for each other. Social etiquette hasn’t reached that stage yet. Also there is no official driving test!! As a result my first few rides were around the area neighboring where I live, called Banana Island.
Banana Island is a private, man made island just under a square mile in size. It’s split into about 500 plots of land which are being sold privately. At this point in time it’s mostly undeveloped with about 40% of the plots having been built up. This makes for a wonderful sedate and peaceful environment with very little human or mechanical traffic.
From my house I ride down a few block-paved roads and across a very bad stretch of road. Most of where I live is reclaimed land so the bad roads around here tend to be quite rocky and sandy. There is little or no road maintenance so the torrential rains of the raining season really chews up the roads and erodes them rapidly.
Not ideal territory for narrow road tyres, but once you get used to the bike digging into the sand, and you grow confidence that the rocks won’t split your tyres, it gets easier. I’ve also found that my balance and poise on the bike have improved dramatically due to riding in these conditions.
Beyond these roads I have a 3-4 mile circuit of undisturbed road that’s gated from mainstream traffic, on Banana Island. I stuck within this area for my first couple of weeks before venturing out. Partly to acclimatise and get my body used to the conditions (Lagos, at this time of year, is very muggy and humid. It can get to mid to high 30s Centigrade during the day and not much cooler in the evenings), but mostly to psyche myself up for the real deal.
My first venture further afield was around busier
Victoria Island early on a Saturday morning. For anyone who doesn’t know its reputation, traffic and general congestion in Lagos can be unreal. We’re talking gridlock. One-hour-to-move-20-meters kind of gridlock. Driving in Nigeria, as I mentioned earlier, is also a bit of a hit and miss affair. More than anything drivers here are aggressive. Fiercely territorial and unforgiving with the space immediately around them. All this is coupled with the stifling heat and humidity, the “Okadas” (scooter taxis) bearing no mind to their situation and those immediately around them, and pedestrians darting across the road at any given time.
Suffice it to say, it’s very important to pick your time well, when the least traffic is on the roads. I started with early mornings. So out I went, and was pleased to discover that the ride itself was fine-and even fun!
I even got up my nerve to try Lagos’ famous Third Mainland Bridge (Lagos is built on islands). The Third Mainland Bridge is the longest bridge in Africa, about 12KM long. It’s often choked with vehicles but at 7 AM on a Sunday traffic was light and I absolutely blasted across. So much fun! Got to do it regularly!
It struck me how “different” it was for most people I passed to see someone on a bike like mine. Since then I’ve had everything from people cheering, stopping me to ask questions, gawking etc. There is a real sense of curiosity and interest. Wherever the bike is parked up it draws a crowd. People in Lagos expect bicycles to be battered and disheveled, not striking and enticing!
{ 18 comments… read them below or add one }
The Bridge shot is awe-inspiring.
Love the contrast the white provides.
The trader – should be exhibited. Full stop
Wow, this photography is simply stunning. I am going to forward this blog to a good friend who was recently considering going fixie. Thanks for the great post!
Excellent post! Amazing photography. What an interesting and lesser trodden insight into life in Lagos. More people need to read this.
No kidding the bike is beautiful. High marks. And I like how the lights keep migrating around the bike in different pictures–proof that someone into customization can never rest. Thanks for sharing this, Tolu, and enjoy!
Biased or not – you are super talented and I am SUPER PROUD!
Well done!
Love you lots!
xxxx
What a beautiful post and imagery. Thank you Tolu!
Wow – beautiful photography, and the bike is a work of art that is a model of simplicity and durability.
Great photography, and beautiful bike. Wonderful post.
Can’t wait for the night shots! I hadn’t really perceived fixies as very practical but you’ve built one up that seems bomb-proof and simple to maintain, not to mention handsome.
Fantastic photography crying for an exhibition!! Go for it man! Please send an invitation. Must attend. Keep it up
Lovely post, Tolu. And Tom… keep ‘em coming. this is great stuff. You’ve got great editorial instinct!
What gorgeous photography and such a great glimpse into a place I have not been.
Thanks for the great post. The photos provide great context for the story. My compliments on the bike as well. “Striking” is a great way to put it.
Thankyou for sharing your unique Lagos experience together with your private opinion of this interesting city with such insight and wisdom.
I think you should expand your cycling expedition across the globe then write a travelling book- why not it would make one excellent adventure my friend!
Haba!! Internationally, (or is that ‘internet’, same difference!) renowned!!
Well done, trooper, article real good, pic’s very special. Have you considered wearing ‘Dainese Body Armour’, just a thought! God’s speed, homie!
Inspiring words and gorgeous pics. This is what the internet is supposed to be! Thanks to Tolu for sharing and Tom for providing the electrons.
dude, photos are brilliant!
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